When a chainsaw stops working, it proves expensive with regard to its repair costs and lost production. For a secure, consistent and a hassle-free operation, it is vital that regular maintenance of the chainsaw is carried out in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations. Chainsaw maintenance calls for an expert approach and adhering to the following facts:
- The recommended servicing need to be accomplished at regular intervals.
- Need to perform a cautious scrutiny of all parts.
- Cleaning of the saw and connected equipment.
- Quickly addressing of the problems and faults found.
- When needed organizing for professional repairs.
In case, any components become faulty, mainly any safety devices, you must not operate the saw.
Chainsaws are available in petrol power for light trimming as well as heavy cutting. However, purchasing the right chainsaw for your precise use is of prime importance. Refer to our chain saw buying guide to identify your chain saw use.
Maintenance of Power Head and Guide Bar
Every Day Service (or Frequent Service as Needed)
Based on a regular daily engine operating time of 6 to 8 hours, the maintenance of chain saw is scheduled accordingly. However, the service duration may need to be reduced when you work mainly in dirty or dusty conditions, or when cutting dry timber. As per the manufacturer’s specifications, below tasks should be carried out on a daily basis:
Air Filter
- To stop the entry of foreign matter, apply the choke to shut off the carburettor throat, prior to removing the filter.
- To detect damage and infiltration of foreign matter, take out and check the filter.
- In case, the filter is damaged, replace it and clean as per manufacturer’s instruction.
- It’s highly suggested that a spare filter be kept so that it can be used as a replacement when need be.
Cleaning
Saw body, air intake vents and cooling fins must be carefully cleaned. In order to prevent damage to the paintwork and possible corrosion, you need to use plastic or wooden scrapers instead of metal screwdrivers.
Chain Brake
Specifically, around brake band and operating mechanism, you must thoroughly clean. In order to keep the brake’s internal components free from amassing dirt and saw dust, repeated operation of the brake all through the day is necessary. Make sure of the right operation.
Saw Chain and Guide Bar
- Take outside cover, clean and inspect.
- To detect possible wear and cracks, you need to visually check chain and bar after removing the saw chain.
- Work from the nose backwards and clean out the groove. Remove burrs, if any.
- Oil holes need to be cleaned.
Sprocket Nose:
- Clean out wreckages.
- Make sure sprocket rotates and scrutiny for broken teeth.
- Grease, if suitable.
- To balance wear, reverse the guide (cutter) bar.
- Sharpen the chain after installing or install the spare chain.
- Several times during the day, it may be required to replace or sharpen the chain.
- Correctly tension the chain.
Loose Screws/ Nuts
- For stiffness, check screws/ nuts.
- Don’t tighten up more than required.
Safety Features
Ensure all safety devices are functioning properly.
Fill Fuel and Chain Oil Tanks
Reduce condensation of water in the tanks during storage by filling the tanks at the end of the day.
Periodic Service
Refer to the owner’s handbook for other tasks that should be carried out on a normal basis in addition to the daily service items. This may include:
Drive Sprocket
- For wear, inspect weekly.
- In case, wear marks on teeth exceed 0.5mm, change after two chains or sooner.
- When changing sprockets, always clean crankshaft stub and needle bearing, and lubricate bearing.
Spark Plug
Take out, clean and scrutiny gap. Change as needed.
Fuel System
- Inspect filter.
- Fuel tank - With 2-stroke mix, flush out any amassed saw dust.
Chain Brake
- To make sure effective operation, repeated lubrication of the pivot or sliding surfaces is required.
- Take to a competent chainsaw mechanic for chain brake fine-tuning.
Oil System
Clean as required and inspect for maneuverability.
Cooling Fans
Clean fan and the cylinder fins after taking out fan housing.
Anti-vibration System
For looseness and deterioration, examine springs/ rubber mountings.
Spark Arrestor
- Take out and clean the spark arrester when the engine performance starts to decline.
- The spark arrester must be safely fixed always.
Engine Tuning
It is highly recommended to refer to a dealer/ service person for the most modern chainsaws that require a digital tachometer for tuning.
Starter Cord
Within the first 20cm, the most common point of cord wear is. Examine the starter cord for possible rupture and change it if required, so as to avoid breaking up while on the job.
About 25.4cc Petrol Chainsaw
We recommend the 25.4cc Petrol Chainsaw 10" Oregon Bar & Chain Heavy Duty, Powerful Chain Saw, which has been made utilizing the finest components and is designed to last in Australia’s harsh conditions. Made for cutting small logs and saw timber, this is one of the best chainsaws in the market. Also, felling small trees and trimming tree branches can be done with it and it is now available with high quality OREGON® chain and bar.
Chainsaw Powerhead Trouble-Shooting Chart
Problem |
Possible causes |
Remedy |
Motor starts, runs well but loses power after two or three cuts. It will pick up again after a brief rest but the condition worsens rapidly. |
- Motor overheating due to: too lean a mixture; not enough oil in 2-stroke fuel
- Pre-ignition by small metallic particles on spark plug
|
- Tune motor; obtain correct mixture
- Replace spark plug
|
Motor starts and runs well but will not continue to idle with throttle in idle position. Speed of motor gradually increases until motor is racing. |
- Leaking fuel pump diaphragm gasket allowing petrol to leak through pump impulse channel into crankcase
- Worn throttle shutter and shaft
|
- Replace gasket. If fuel pump body is warped, replace.
- Replace shutter and shaft
|
Motor runs well but loses power at certain angles. |
- Carburettor inlet control lever is incorrectly set
|
- Reset lever so it is level with body of carburettor
|
Excessive vibration. |
- Anti-vibration mounting broken
- Depth gauges on chain too high
- Chain not filed correctly
- Worn sprocket
- Chain pitch and sprocket pitch not matched
- Loose clutch or loose fly wheel
|
- Replace
- Re-set
- File carefully
- Replace
- Use correct chain, sprocket
- Refer to dealer
|
Motor will not start. |
- No fuel in tank
- Motor flooded (remedy a or b)
Other possible causes:
- Faulty spark plug
- High tension lead shorting due to dampness or wear
- Ignition switch off or faulty
- Jets wrongly adjusted
- No compression
|
- Refuel
- a) Place saw over log with exhaust port facing down and choke in off position. Hold throttle wide open and pull starter.
- b) Set choke to running position, turn off ignition. Remove and dry out spark plug. Ensure spark plug lead is earthed and briskly pull starter rope to blow out fuel. Replace spark plug.
|
Motor starts and misses. |
- Faulty carburettor adjustment
- Faulty spark plug
- Leaking or damaged high tension lead, damp
- Faulty on/off switch
- Faulty electronic ignition
|
- Readjust
- Replace
- Replace or dry out
- Replace
- Replace
|
Motor starts, will not idle but runs at very high speed. |
- Low speed jet wrongly adjusted
|
|
Motor starts, idles but will not accelerate to full speed. |
- Chain adjusted too tightly
- Fuel filter plugged with dirt
- Chain drive links jammed by pinched bar groove
- Choke shutter not opening
- Low or high speed jet wrongly adjusted
- Blocked exhaust screen
|
- Re-adjust
- Clean or replace
- Refer to dealer
- Replace
- Re-adjust
- Clean or replace
|
Motor starts, idles and appears to run well, but lacks power. |
- Tight chain
- Jammed chain
- Exhaust ports clogged with carbon
- Dirty air filter element
- Blocked fuel filter
- Incorrect tuning
- Rings and/or cylinder worn
|
- Re-adjust
- Free
- Bring piston to top dead centre. Clear carbon from port using wood scraper.
- Clean or replace
- Clean or replace
- Check and adjust
- To test: remove starter assembly and turn motor by hand in forward and reverse direction. Higher compression in reverse indicates worn rings and/or cylinder.
- Replace
|
Motor idles but chain continues to move. |
- Motor idling too fast and chain too loose
- Clutch drum bearing worn, dry
- Clutch springs broken
- Clutch shoe pivot point worn
- Clutch shoes broken
|
- Re-adjust idling, tension chain
- Oil or replace
- Replace
- Replace
- Replace
|
Motor idling speed can only be obtained with mixture settings very different from specification. |
- Damage to adjustment screws by screwing too tight. Jet seats likely damaged also.
- Worn throttle shaft and bushing
|
- Replace with new screws and new carburettor
- Replace shaft and bushing
|